Acne, commonly known as pimples, blemishes, or congestion, remains a concern for many people well into their 20s—and beyond. To achieve and maintain a clear complexion, managing acne requires an informed approach.
In this journal, we delve into the steps clients can take to address these concerns and promote clearer skin, from key skincare actives and treatments to daily lifestyle choices, and the common missteps to avoid along the way.
Common skincare actives for breakouts and acne-prone skin
There are a multitude of skincare actives and treatments with known evidence to improve the look and appearance of blemishes, blackheads, and congestion.
Phase One: A Simple, Targeted Approach
Maintain Oil Production and Support Barrier Function with Niacinamide
An overproduction of sebum can lead to an oily, shiny appearance, congestion and breakouts. Niacinamide in known to help maintain natural sebum production, reducing congestion that leads to blemishes. Additionally, niacinamide (Vitamin B3), fortifies barrier function, improving overall skin hydration while visibly calming redness.
RATIONALE recommends:
#1 The Serum
A lightweight daily serum that supports skin barrier function with niacinamide, visibly evening skin tone and improving skin clarity.
Use: Daily, in the morning
Support Skin Renewal with Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)
Research demonstrates that chemical exfoliation with ingredients such as Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) helps regulate skin turnover and natural exfoliation processes. While AHAs are focused on the surface layer of skin, lipid-soluble BHAs, such as salicylic acid, can penetrate pores, helping to clear congestion, blockages, and promote a more refined look to pores.
RATIONALE recommends:
#5 The Cleanser
A gel cleanser that visibly improves skin texture while removing surface debris.
Use: Daily, at night.
#5 The Serum
A refining serum that targets blemishes and congestion, working to alleviate breakouts with AHAs and BHAs
Use: Daily, at night.
Phase One: A Simple, Targeted Approach
Product Recommendations
Phase Two: Introduce Antioxidant Support and Barrier Nourishment
As congestion begins to clear and skin becomes more predictable, build on your base and start to incorporate the following actives.
Visibly Soothe Redness and Pigmentation with Antioxidants
Inflammation can be both a cause and consequence of acne. When targeting signs of irritation or post-inflammatory discolouration, antioxidants, such as niacinamide, have been shown to visibly calm redness and support barrier recovery. The addition of Vitamin C can help defend skin against oxidative stress and visibly diminish post-acne pigmentation.
RATIONALE recommends:
#2 The Hydragel
A cooling formulation that visibly brightens the complexion with Vitamin C while soothing skin.
Introduce a daily SPF to help defend skin against solar stressors and environmental aggressors.
RATIONALE recommends:
#3 The Tinted Serum SPF50+
A daily serum that visibly illuminates and evens the complexion, while imparting SPF50 protection.
Fortify Barrier Function with Lipids and Ceramides
A strong barrier allows skin to heal more effectively. When lipids and ceramides are depleted, weakening barrier function, skin often becomes more reactive and slower to recover from breakouts, irritation or flare ups. A key step in any skincare routine, we know that maintaining barrier integrity is vital in overall skin health and reduces the likelihood of persistent breakouts.
RATIONALE recommends:
#4 The Cleanser
A comforting, ceramide-enriched cream formulation to gently cleanse without stripping skin. Introduce before #5 Cleanser for a nightly double cleanse.
Phase Two: Introduce Antioxidant Support and Barrier Nourishment
Product Recommendations
Phase Three: Optimise Long-Term Luminosity
Once skin enters a ‘maintenance’ phase, support long-term radiant results.
Support Skin Turnover and Oil Production with Retinal and Retinol
Vitamin A and its derivatives – most commonly found in skincare as retinol and retinal – are effective in supporting skin turnover, and maintaining optimal oil production, together helping to target congestion caused by ineffective exfoliation and overproduction of sebum.
RATIONALE recommends:
#6 The Night Crème
Nourish night-time moisture with a powerful Vitamin A cream that supports skin turnover and maintains healthy oil production. When first incorporating, use on alternate nights for 2-3 weeks before using more frequently.
Recommended RATIONALE Facials for Blemishes and Congestion
Enhance your skincare results with a professional facial featuring actives that target congestion, oil balance, texture, hydration, and radiance with LED Light Therapy.
Phase One: The Express Light Therapy Facial
A streamlined, 45-minute treatment to strengthen, hydrate and visibly uplift.
Phase Two: The Express EpiNova Facial
A streamlined, 45-minute version of our signature treatment to visibly firm, hydrate and revitalise.
Phase Three: The EpiNova Facial
Our signature 90-minute facial to visibly firm, hydrate and revitalise, for ultimate skin renewal.What to avoid when managing acne or congestion
Just as there are formulations and treatments for supporting skin clarity, there are also behaviours that hinder recovery. Common practises to avoid include:
Squeezing or picking blemishes
Manual squeezing can rupture follicle walls, deepen inflammation, and increase the risk of scarring. Short-term satisfaction will only lead to continued breakouts and compromised skin.
Over cleansing
An overzealous approach to cleansing can strip natural oils, prompting excess oiliness and barrier disruption as the skin tries to protect itself from this compromised state.
Skipping SPF
UV exposure slows healing and worsens pigmentation. Incorporating daily SPF supports a calmer, more even and protected complexion.
Overusing actives
Layering multiple strong actives too quickly may overwhelm the skin and trigger flare-ups. Being guided on what’s best for your unique needs is key to managing breakouts and promoting radiant skin health.
Eating a diet high in sugar or processed foods
A diet rich in these foods can trigger spikes in blood glucose and insulin, stimulating excess sebum production and inflammation within the skin.
Expert Advice from RATIONALE National Education Manager, Taylah Hampton
Slow and steady wins this race...
“The most important piece of advice when trying to improve acne and congestion, is to stay consistent with a routine that focuses on nurturing your skin’s barrier,” says Taylah. “Allow your active ingredients to do the work for you! Avoid adding too many new products or unnecessary steps if you don’t see immediate results. Your skin is in the process of rebuilding, strengthening, and calming inflammation – which takes time.”
...and a support team is always on hand
She adds: “There is also no 'one size fits all' approach when it comes to treating acne/congestion because there are so many different factors at play (routine, lifestyle, hormones, stress, etc.), so if you find that your results are plateauing or you need support and guidance, a skin consultation can be an empowering first step to reassure you that you're on the right track.”
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